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Η Κάσος της Άλκηστης Πρωτοψάλτη «Αφού θα φύγεις, Άλκηστη, εις το καλό να πάεις, της Κάσσου το μικρό νησί ποτέ μην το ξεχνάεις …»

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Αναδημοσίευση από το athensvoice.gr

Η Κάσσος με πανσέληνο του Αυγούστου να μας λούζει με φως. Δυο ησυχίες, μία από κει που έπεφτε ο ήλιος και μία από εκεί που ανέβαινε το φεγγάρι. Τι γνήσιο ελληνικό τοπίο. Τι μοναδικός πίνακας. Ένα νησί που λάτρεψα από την πρώτη στιγμή.

Από την κορυφή του Αγ. Μάμμα, μια ευθεία η Αλεξάνδρεια. Και ήρθαν συγγενείς και με βρήκαν, και ήρθαν και φωτογραφίες, και ξέσπασαν οι αναμνήσεις από τα νιάτα των γονιών μου. Η μητέρα μου, το γένος Φραγκούλη από την Κάσσο, και εγώ τρίτη ξαδέλφη του Μάριου (Φραγκούλη). Αυτό ξαναήρθε στη μνήμη μου τη στιγμή που διάβασα την ταυτότητα της μητέρας μου όταν «έφυγε» το 2015. Αχ βρε μαμά, με τα ντολμαδάκια σου τα Κασσιώτικα, τα τόσα δα μικρούλικα… τι υπομονή! Κασσιώτες, άνθρωποι θαλασσινοί, σπουδαίοι ναυτικοί, φιλόξενοι, με το χαμόγελο στα χείλη.

 

Φτάνει ο πρόλογος, ας κάνουμε τη βόλτα μας μέσα από τα δικά μου μάτια….

Το νησί προσφέρει απόλυτη ησυχία και εξερεύνηση. Δυνατό στις παραδόσεις μας, και αν πετύχετε τοπικό γάμο ή γλέντι θα το θυμάστε σε όλη σας τη ζωή. Το Φρυ είναι και το μοναδικό τεράστιο λιμάνι, πεντακάθαρο και πλάι του είναι το μικρό λιμανάκι της Μπούκας για βάρκες και ψαροκάικα. Πολλά φρέσκα ψάρια που τα πουλούν αμέσως από τα τελάρα τους οι ψαράδες.

 

Μου είπε ένας ψαράς, «Καπετάνισσα, μπες και στη θάλασσα της Κάσσου, άντε κοπέλα μου να τη γεμίσεις ενέργεια να την ανακατώσεις». Και μπήκα… Στην Έλατρο, έκανα ένα από τα ωραιότερα μπάνια της τελευταίας 10ετίας, με φοβερή αμμουδιά μέσα και αστραφτερά βότσαλα έξω, με δυο βουνά που αγκαλιάζουν την παραλία και δημιουργούν έναν αντίλαλο εκπληκτικό.

Ναι…δεν αντιστάθηκα, είπα και ένα τραγούδι a cappella «Στο παράδεισο, έχω σημαδέψει ένα νησί απαράλλακτο εσύ και ένα σπίτι στη θάλασσα, με κρεβάτι μεγάλο και πόρτα μικρή, έχω ρίξει μες τ’ άπατα μιαν ηχώ, να κοιτάζομαι κάθε πρωί που ξυπνώ, να σε βλέπω μισή να περνάς στο νερό και μισή να κλαίω μες το παράδεισο», ποίηση του Οδυσσέα Ελύτη και μουσική του Ανδριόπουλου. Η θάλασσα πάντα με εμπνέει…

Με καϊκάκι σε πηγαίνουν στα Αρμάθεια. Εκεί να δεις χρώμα τα νερά… Όλες οι αποχρώσεις του μπλε-τιρκουάζ, μα-γι-κά, εξωτικά!

Μπορείτε να επισκεφτείτε το Εμποριό, το παλιό λιμάνι, με καταπληκτικά παλιά πετρόχτιστα σπίτια, τη σπηλιά Σελλάι με πανέμορφους σταλακτίτες, το μουσείο…

Φαγητό στο νησί εξαιρετικό, ψάρι με όλους τους τρόπους, κρέας και ντολμαδάκια, πήρα μαγειρεμένα μαζί μου τρία τάπερ (με γιαούρτι τέλεια!). Θεϊκό μέλι και ψωμί. Οι κριθαροκουλούρες με ντομάτα και φέτα όνειρο. Δεν μπορώ να σας περιγράψω τι κουβάλησα μαζί μου φεύγοντας…

Το καλοκαίρι του 2019 έγινε η συναυλία μου, τι ήταν αυτό! Ήρθαν και από την Κάρπαθο τη λατρεμένη τρία καΐκια με κόσμο. Η σκηνή στο λιμάνι στο πλάι, δεν τους έβλεπα όλους, μας χώριζε και η θάλασσα και έτσι κατέβηκα προς το τέλος και έτρεξα 400 μέτρα πίσω από τα σπίτια τραγουδώντας, βγήκα μπροστά τους και γίναμε ΕΝΑ. Αξέχαστες στιγμές. Μου επιφύλαξαν όμως και εκείνοι μια έκπληξη.

Το απόγευμα που θα έφευγα με το αεροπλανάκι για Κάρπαθο (τέσσερα λεπτά πτήση), περιμένοντας στην αίθουσα αναχωρήσεων, 2 άτομα (!), ανοίγει η πόρτα και μπαίνουν τρεις οργανοπαίχτες και 6 κορίτσια με παραδοσιακές στολές για να με αποχαιρετήσουν! Δεν μπορώ να σας περιγράψω τι έγινε… δάκρυα ποτάμι, και συγκίνηση, χορός και τραγούδι, άλλα και μια σκέψη-υπόσχεση, δεν μπορείς να μην ξανάρθεις σ’ αυτό τον ευλογημένο τόπο με τέτοιους ανθρώπους.

…Ωωωω ώπα!!! «Αφού θα φύγεις Άλκηστη, εις το καλό να πάεις, της Κάσσου το μικρό νησί ποτέ μην το ξεχνάεις …»

Υ.Γ. Ένα τεράστιο ευχαριστώ σε όλους τους Κασσιώτες, που μου έκαναν αξέχαστη την παραμονή μου στο νησί, και στη Κάρπαθο που με αγκάλιασε σαν το πέλαγός της. Ευγνώμων για πάντα.

«Πηγή: https://www.athensvoice.gr

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