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Νίσυρος νησί ηφαίστειο , νησί γεμάτο εκπλήξεις

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Το ενεργό της ηφαίστειο, τα ιαματικά λουτρά, η αγάπη που τρέφουν γι’ αυτήν οι άνθρωποι των τεχνών, οι υπέροχοι οικισμοί, αλλά και το εξαιρετικό δίκτυο των μονοπατιών της την κάνουν μοναδική.

Η Νίσυρος δεν είναι ένα νησί σαν όλα τ’ άλλα. Στην πραγματικότητα, δεν είναι καν νησί. Πρόκειται για ένα ενεργό ηφαίστειο, το νεαρότερο του τόξου του Νότιου Αιγαίου, με δύο τουλάχιστον μεγάλες εκρήξεις τα τελευταία 45.000 χρόνια και μία ακόμα πιο καταστροφική, που σκέπασε την ευρύτερη περιοχή με τέφρα πριν από 16 χιλιετίες. Τα τελευταία 130 χρόνια το ηφαίστειο λαγοκοιμάται, αλλά οι επιστήμονες αφουγκράζονται προσεκτικά τον καθημερινό του «βήχα». Το ηφαίστειο της Νισύρου είναι από τα ελάχιστα επισκέψιμα του πλανήτη, αφού μπορεί οποιοσδήποτε να φτάσει εκεί με το αυτοκίνητό του και να περάσει ώρες περιδιαβαίνοντας τους 10 υδροθερμικούς κρατήρες με τα υπέροχα ονόματα: Στέφανος, Πολυβώτης, Αλέξανδρος. Το απόκοσμο τοπίο θα μπορούσε να μετατρέψει τη Νίσυρο σε παγκόσμιο αξιοθέατο, όσο τουλάχιστον το ηφαίστειο παραμένει σε ύπνωση. Πού αλλού μπορεί να αισθανθεί κανείς τόσο έντονη την ανάσα της γης κάτω από τα πόδια του;

Δεν υπάρχουν οργανωμένες παραλίες

Ετοιμαστείτε λοιπόν για διακοπές χωρίς ξαπλώστρες, beach bars, τζετ σκι και… ρακετομάχους. Εάν θελήσετε σκιά και δροσιά στην άμμο, θα πρέπει να αγοράσετε δική σας ομπρέλα και να πάρετε μαζί σας πόσιμο νερό. Η Παχιά Αμμος αγαπάει τον γυμνισμό και το ελεύθερο κάμπινγκ, οπότε ας την αποφύγουν όσοι υποφέρουν από δυσανεξία στα σχετικά… σπορ. Εχει βεβαίως χώρο για όλους, αφού είναι απέραντη και απέχει 15 λεπτά με τα πόδια από το κοντινότερο πάρκινγκ. Εμάς πάντως θα μας βρείτε λίγο παραέξω, στις Λιες, μακριά από την πολυκοσμία. Ή στους Χοχλάκους, με τα μεγάλα βότσαλα, πέντε βήματα από το Μανδράκι. Αν ξεκινήσουμε πρωί, μπορεί να βρούμε και χώρο κάτω από τα ελάχιστα αρμυρίκια, για να μη μας φάει το λιοπύρι.

Από τον Εμπορείο στα Νίκια και στο Αυλάκι

Ο ορεινός οικισμός του Εμπορειού εγκαταλείφθηκε μετά τον σεισμό του 1933, αλλά σιγά σιγά αποκτά παλμό, αφού πολλά παραδοσιακά σπίτια αποκτούν νέους ιδιοκτήτες ή μετατρέπονται σε ξενώνες. Πολλοί τον επισκέπτονται για τις δύο εξαιρετικές ταβέρνες του ή για τη «φυσική σάουνα» που υπάρχει σε μια μικρή σπηλιά στην είσοδο του χωριού. Αθέατος από τη θάλασσα και σκαρφαλωμένος στα τείχη της καλντέρας σαν απόκρημνο κάστρο, γνώρισε άνθηση την περίοδο της πειρατείας. Στο απέναντι χείλος του γκρεμού, τα Νικιά σάς καλωσορίζουν με μια κουκλίστικη, πολυφωτογραφημένη πλατεία (ονόματι Πόρτα), απίθανη θέα στους κρατήρες και ένα καλοφτιαγμένο Ηφαιστειολογικό Μουσείο. Η εκδρομή ολοκληρώνεται στο Αυλάκι, το παλαιό πειρατικό αγκυροβόλι όπου δεν ζει πια κανείς. Στο λιμανάκι του κάναμε το καλύτερο μπάνιο του καλοκαιριού.

Ο νεαρόκοσμος αγαπά τα θερμά λουτρά της

Το θαλασσινό και βρόχινο νερό αναμειγνύεται με τα γεωθερμικά ρευστά του ανώτερου υδροφόρου ορίζοντα και η Νίσυρος προσφέρει ανακούφιση με τα ιαματικά της λουτρά σε όσους υποφέρουν από μυοσκελετικές, δερματολογικές και γυναικολογικές παθήσεις. Το καυτό νερό που αναβλύζει από διάφορα σημεία του νησιού –και από τη θάλασσα– μπορεί να ξεπεράσει τους 60 βαθμούς, αλλά τα Δημοτικά Λουτρά (τηλ. 22420-31284), που ιδρύθηκαν στα τέλη του 19ου αιώνα και τελούν υπό διαρκή αναβάθμιση, μαζεύουν μάλλον νεαρόκοσμο και χίπστερ παρά ανήμπορα γεροντάκια. Το καφενείο που βρίσκεται στο ισόγειο έχει καλό φαγητό και γλυκόπιοτο τσίπουρο, ενώ τα δωμάτια του δημοτικού ξενώνα που νοικιάζονται στους επισκέπτες, με θέα στη θάλασσα που βρίσκεται μπροστά στο όμορφο κτίριο, είναι φθηνά και καθαρά. Τον παλιό καλό καιρό, λειτουργούσαν εδώ καζίνο, θέατρο και βιβλιοθήκη. Πρόσφατα εξαγγέλθηκε μεγαλεπήβολη επένδυση για δημιουργία ξενοδοχειακής μονάδας 5 αστέρων και πλήρης αναβάθμιση των Λουτρών, με σύμπραξη δημόσιου και ιδιωτικού τομέα.


Τα Δημοτικά Λουτρά γνώρισαν στο παρελθόν ένδοξες μέρες. Σχεδιάζεται η πλήρης αναβάθμισή τους. (Φωτογραφία: ΝΙΚΟΛΑΣ ΜΑΣΤΟΡΑΣ)

Η αιώνια αγαπημένη των καλλιτεχνών

Η ιδιαίτερη ενέργεια που μοιάζει να αναβλύζει από το ηφαίστειο και το σεληνιακό τοπίο προσφέρει έμπνευση σε πολυάριθμους καλλιτέχνες και η Νίσυρος μετατρέπεται τα καλοκαίρια σε «νησί των τεχνών». Δεκαπέντε Ελληνες μουσικοί αυτοσχεδίαζαν επί 10 ώρες και 34 λεπτά μέσα στην καλντέρα τη νύχτα της πανσελήνου του περσινού Αυγούστου, ενώ η ταινία «Ο αρσιβαρίστας και ο Αγγελος» της Ελένης Αλεξανδράκη γυρίστηκε εξ ολοκλήρου μέσα στον κρατήρα «Στέφανο». Η ίδια η σκηνοθέτις μάλιστα και ο γλύπτης Ιάσων Καραΐνδρος διοργανώνουν στο νησί εδώ και δύο δεκαετίες φεστιβάλ κινηματογράφου και άλλων τεχνών με προβολές και σεμινάρια. Ο πολυσυλλεκτικός μη κερδοσκοπικός οργανισμός Στέρνα (sterna.com.gr), που ιδρύθηκε το 2014 από τον καλλιτέχνη Γρηγόρη Χατζηιωαννίδη και «συνιστά δοχείο νέων ιδεών, συναντήσεων και παρεμβάσεων», με έδρα το κάστρο της Παντονίκης στον Εμπορειό, διοργανώνει κάθε Αύγουστο έκθεση με τη συμμετοχή δεκάδων Ελλήνων και ξένων καλλιτεχνών, η οποία διαρκεί όλο τον μήνα.

Ξακουστά πανηγυρία σε ολα τα Δωδεκάνησα

Χτισμένο σε μια σπηλαιώδη κοιλότητα μέσα στο παλαιό Ενετικό κάστρο, το μοναστήρι της Παναγίας Σπηλιανής δεσπόζει πάνω από την πρωτεύουσα Μανδράκι (με τους 700 μόνιμους κατοίκους) και τα βράδια μοιάζει σαν να αιωρείται στον ουρανό. Θεωρείται μία από τις σημαντικότερες μονές της Ορθοδοξίας και προσελκύει προσκυνητές από όλη την Ελλάδα, ενώ πρόσφατα (2011) την επισκέφτηκε ο Οικουμενικός Πατριάρχης. Η εορτή του Δεκαπενταύγουστου συνοδεύεται από διήμερη κατάνυξη και ξακουστό πανηγύρι, όπου ξεχωρίζουν το έθιμο της «κούπας» (χορός όπου η κοπέλα που τον σέρνει κρατάει στο χέρι ένα κύπελλο για δωρεές προς τη μονή και το νησί) και η ρεβιθάδα στην πλατεία του χωριού. Στην άλλη άκρη του νησιού, στο Αυλάκι, το ξωκλήσι του Αγίου Παντελεήμονα γιορτάζει στις 27 Ιουλίου με μουσική και χορό.

Οι εμιγκρέδες που τιμούν τον τόπο τους

Η Νίσυρος δεν είναι φτωχό νησί. Οποιος την επισκεφτεί τον Δεκαπενταύγουστο θα συναντήσει φαμίλιες ολόκληρες που μιλούν σπαστά –ή καθόλου– Ελληνικά, αλλά τηρούν φιλότιμα το εθιμοτυπικό της εορτής. Πρόκειται για τους «μπρούκληδες» που επιστρέφουν από τις ΗΠΑ για ολιγοήμερες διακοπές στην πατρίδα τους. Πολλά έργα υποδομής (ή διατήρησης των παραδόσεων) έχουν χρηματοδοτηθεί με τα δολάρια των εμιγκρέδων του νησιού. Ενας από τους επιφανέστερους, ο 69χρονος Τζον Κατσιματίδης, συνομιλητής του Τραμπ και φίλος των Κλίντον, με περιουσία 3,4 δισ. δολαρίων, συγκαταλέγεται στη λίστα του Forbes με τους 400 πλουσιότερους ανθρώπους της Αμερικής. Γνωστός για τη φιλανθρωπική του δράση, διεκδίκησε το χρίσμα των Ρεπουμπλικανών για τη δημαρχία της Νέας Υόρκης το 2013. Ενας άλλος Τζον Κατσιματίδης, της ίδιας οικογένειας, αδελφός της ηθοποιού Ανθούλας, σκοτώθηκε στα 31 του στους Δίδυμους Πύργους: το γραφείο του βρισκόταν στον 104ο όροφο.

Πάνω από 40 μονοπάτια

Τα πιο πολλά είναι εύκολα, αν και καταλήγουν στο Λακκί, δηλαδή στα… έγκατα της γης. Μερικά από αυτά περνούν από το Παλαιόκαστρο, το οχυρωματικό έργο της Κλασικής Περιόδου με τις κυκλώπειες πέτρες που σε κάνουν να απορείς πώς ακριβώς μεταφέρθηκαν και τοποθετήθηκαν στα τείχη. Η δημοφιλέστερη θαλάσσια εκδρομή για μπάνιο και εξερεύνηση είναι στην ηφαιστειογενή νησίδα Γυαλί, όπου γίνεται εξόρυξη ελαφρόπετρας. Εδώ βρέθηκαν ίχνη προϊστορικού οικισμού και αρχαίου νεκροταφείου, ενώ στην Επανάσταση του 1821 το νησάκι αποτέλεσε καταφύγιο του Ανδρέα Μιαούλη.

Νightlife με θέα μοναστήρι και θάλασσα

Η νυχτερινή ζωή του νησιού εντοπίζεται στη «μικρή Βενετία» στο Μανδράκι, στη σκιά του μοναστηριού, με τα τέσσερα-πέντε αξιοπρεπέστατα καφέ-μπαρ που κλείνουν αργά το βράδυ και ξανανοίγουν λίγες ώρες μετά για πρωινό. Στο Εναλλάξ ακούσαμε και Radiohead, στα Λιοτρίδια ελληνικό έντεχνο και στην Προβέζα καλή τζαζ. Αλλού θα πετύχετε και λαϊκά, αλλά εμείς προτιμήσαμε να τα αποφύγουμε. Το ζητούμενο άλλωστε δεν ήταν η μουσική ή το ξεφάντωμα, αλλά ένα τραπεζάκι δίπλα στο νερό, με το κατάφωτο μοναστήρι να «κρέμεται» πάνω από τα κεφάλια μας. Οταν βέβαια σήκωσε αεράκι, οι πιο τολμηροί γίναμε μούσκεμα. Στην επιστροφή, σταματήσαμε στον φούρνο για ζεστό ψωμί και τυρόπιτα. Θα τον εντοπίσετε εύκολα, εάν εμπιστευτείτε τη… μύτη σας.


Οι γάτες βγαίνουν για σουλάτσο στο Μανδράκι. Στα σοκάκια του δεν χωράνε ενοχλητικά αυτοκίνητα. (Φωτογραφία: SHUTTERSTOCK)

Η «δεύτερη πατρίδα» του Νίκου Παπάζογλου

Στην πόρτα ενός όμορφου σπιτιού στα Νικιά υποδέχεται πένθιμα τον ανυποψίαστο περαστικό ένα κόκκινο φουλάρι. Εδώ ήταν η «θερινή κατοικία» του Θεσσαλονικιού καλλιτέχνη, που περνούσε στο νησί εβδομάδες ολόκληρες τραγουδώντας, συζητώντας και πίνοντας τσίπουρα, με σημείο αναφοράς το στέκι του Αντρίκου, το καφενείο «Βάρδα στεναχώρια», στην Πλατεία Ηλικιωμένης στο Μανδράκι. Ο Παπάζογλου έφυγε από τη ζωή τον Απρίλιο του 2011, στα 63 του χρόνια. Το σπίτι στα Νικιά έμεινε στην οικογένειά του και το φουλάρι μοιάζει με αναμμένο κερί στη μνήμη του.


Το καφενείο του Αντρίκου ήταν το στέκι του Νίκου Παπάζογλου. (Φωτογραφία: ΚΛΑΙΡΗ ΜΟΥΣΤΑΦΕΛΛΟΥ)

Μετάβαση

Ο γρηγορότερος τρόπος για να φτάσετε στη Νίσυρο από την Αθήνα είναι μέσω Κω (από το λιμάνι της Καρδάμαινας, που απέχει 10 λεπτά οδικώς από το αεροδρόμιο, αναχωρούν τουλάχιστον δύο πλοιάρια τη μέρα). Τα αεροπορικά εισιτήρια με επιστροφή κοστίζουν κατά μέσο όρο γύρω στα 100 ευρώ. Ακτοπλοϊκώς, από το λιμάνι του Πειραιά, το ταξίδι ξεπερνά τις 13 ώρες. Ενδεικτική τιμή για τον Ιούλιο: 40 ευρώ με επιστροφή. Υπάρχει επίσης σύνδεση της Νισύρου με Αστυπάλαια, Χάλκη, Κάλυμνο, Καστελλόριζο, Λειψούς, Λέρο, Νάξο, Πάρο, Πάτμο, Ρόδο, Σύμη, Τήλο.

Διαμονή

• Romantzo (Mανδράκι, τηλ. 22420-31340, www.nisyros-romantzo.gr). Ομορφο πέτρινο κτίριο κοντά στο λιμάνι και στην πρωτεύουσα, με θέα στη θάλασσα από όλα τα δωμάτια. Από 35 ευρώ.
• Μελανόπετρα (Εμπορειός, τηλ. 6978-060289, www.melanopetra.gr). Ψηλά στην καλντέρα, στον οικισμό του Εμπορειού, μια εκπληκτική βίλα με δυνατότητα φιλοξενίας 4-6 ατόμων, αποτελούμενη από δύο αυτόνομα διαμερίσματα με θέα στο Αιγαίο. Από 90 ευρώ η κατοικία.


Μελανόπετρα

• Μαρία Ελίζα (Νικιά, τηλ. 6944-576004). Διαμορφωμένη παραδοσιακή κατοικία με δύο κρεβατοκάμαρες σε δύο επίπεδα και σπιτική φιλοξενία, σε ένα χωριό με ελάχιστες επιλογές διαμονής.

Για κρατήσεις που αφορούν τη διαμονή σας επισκεφθείτε τo: www.booking.com

Φαγητό 

• Το Μπαλκόνι του Εμπορειού (Εμπορειός, τηλ. 22420-31607). Αξίζει τον κόπο η αναμονή για τραπέζι στην άκρη της βεράντας. Φροντίστε να είστε εκεί πριν νυχτώσει, ώστε να βλέπετε το ηφαίστειο. Κρεατικά και παραδοσιακή κουζίνα.
• Aφροδίτη (Πάλοι, τηλ. 22420-31560). Ολοι συμφωνούν ότι είναι η καλύτερη από τις τέσσερις-πέντε ψαροταβέρνες που συνυπάρχουν στο πολυσύχναστο λιμανάκι και προτείνουν ανεπιφύλακτα το συμιακό γαριδάκι με κουρκούτι.
• Ειρήνη (Μανδράκι, τηλ. 22420-31365). Η καλύτερη από τις ταβέρνες κάτω από τα δέντρα στην Πλατεία Ηλικιωμένης, με σπιτικό μαγειρευτό φαγητό και τοπικές σπεσιαλιτέ, όπως πιτιά, μπουκουνιές, κουνέλι στιφάδο και φοβερά γλυκά.
• Bacareto Margarita (Mανδράκι, τηλ. 22420-31832). Ιταλική τρατορία δίπλα στα μπαρ της «μικρής Βενετίας». Η παρουσία του Ιταλού ιδιοκτήτη εγγυάται γνησιότητα και λίγη… τρέλα. Στο μενού θα βρείτε και ελληνικά πιάτα με ιταλική πινελιά.

Καφές – Ποτό

• Το Καφενείο του Νικόλα (Νικιά, τηλ. 6972-640401). Καφέ-μεζεδοπωλείο στην πλατεία των Νικιών. Το πιθανότερο είναι να μείνετε με τις ώρες, ιδίως αν πάτε απόγευμα. Στον εσωτερικό χώρο υπάρχει και η γωνιά του Νίκου Παπάζογλου.
• Εναλλάξ (Μανδράκι, τηλ.22420-31760). Κομψό μπαράκι δίπλα στο κύμα. Ροκ ήχοι και σποραδικά live κάτω από το φωτισμένο μοναστήρι.
• Αντρίκος – Βάρδα Στεναχώρια (Μανδράκι, τηλ. 22420-31512). Το στέκι του Παπάζογλου, με κοινό που μοιάζει γαλουχημένο με τη μουσική του και με τον ιδιόρρυθμο ιδιοκτήτη πανταχού παρόντα. Η τοπική ρακή –κουκουζίνα– ρέει άφθονη.
• Αποσπέρι (Εμπορειός, τηλ. 22420-31022). Μοντέρνο καφενείο με υπέροχη ατμόσφαιρα, εκπληκτική θέα και ωραία κοκτέιλ, στην άκρη του οικισμού.

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